There are some things you need to be aware of with the Vamo.
When you begin to use your new V5, you may have trouble turning it on. The Vamo requires five quick clicks of the main power button to turn it on or off. Sometimes it may be tricky to find the proper cadence for the clicks. My wife sometimes had trouble turning on her own Vamo after she began using it.
This is not an issue with V7. When you insert a battery, it says Hello and you're ready to go. If you want to power it down and turn it back on again, you can use the 5 click method for that.
The switch buttons are the main point of vulnerability in a Vamo. What you see and press are basically switch covers. Little machined stainless steel plugs that contact and activate micro-switches on the circuit board inside. That's why they may rattle a little bit. You can ruin a Vamo by dropping it so that it happens to land directly on a switch button. You could probably never do it in a thousand deliberate attempts but when (not if) you drop a Vamo, we will always hope one of switch buttons does not receive a direct or glancing blow.
The 510 thread is another point of vulnerability. Always be careful not to cross-thread or over-tighten a tank. I suggest the Vamo is happier if you hold the tank like it's a bolt and thread the Vamo onto the tank as if it's a very large nut. As opposed to screwing the tank into the Vamo. When you're learning about your V5, use the resistance meter to get a good idea on how far you actually need to tighten the tank to make contact. You will find you have good continuity long before the tank is firmly tightened. There's no need to tighten it any more firmly than to the point it reaches an easy stop. Any tighter and you risk pushing the center pin into the connector head and out of the reach of contact with your atomizer.
The situation is a little different with a newer model of the Vamo with the floating center pin. You will get continuity before you ever tighten the tank. If you install the tank and get a persistent "Check Atomizer" message, do exactly that. Use the right power button and read the resistance to go past the message.
Please know that damage to the 510 connector is not a condition that is covered by warranty so be careful when installing your tanks.
When (not if) you break off the threads of a tank inside the 510 connector, it seems like a difficult situation but it's not the end of the Vamo. Depending on how much of the thread broke off, there are simple ways to fix it. One of the first to try is work the eraser of a new pencil into the connector and slowly start turning the pencil to break it loose before the eraser begins to shred. Once you get it to move, the rest is easy. If you have further difficulties, email me and I'll help you through additional methods. Installing the beauty ring from the Kanger tank kit to the ego threads will offer a more secure platform and provide better security for the tank and the 510 threads.
The resistance meter is your friend. If your Vamo suddenly quits making vapor, you may want to think your Vamo has gone to vapor heaven. Push and hold that right button and check the resistance of the coil. If your meter says 9.9 ohms, that means your two dollar coil is blown and your Vamo is still plenty good. Just change your coil. Many times you can clean the threads of your coil head and tank base to restore function to an atomizer.
Another thing to watch over the long term are the pressed in components. The upper battery tube and the top connector are pressed into the Vamo body. Over time and with wear & tear, these have been known to loosen. It seems to happen with maybe 5 out of 1000. If you ever start to get random shutdown errors, check the joint between the Vamo body and the upper battery tube for any signs of looseness and make sure they are secure. Give it a good wiggle to check. Although you may not think so, a slightly loose battery tube that still has full contact can create a microsecond break in continuity that will trigger the protective function of PCB to shut the Vamo down.
If a Vamo ever gets loose like this, you can contact me for guidance through the repair or you can send it to me and I will repair it for you.
If you ever experience difficulty of any sort with a Vamo, tell me about it. I know just about every trick in the book and I know these devices inside and out.
That said, the Vamo are built like a tank. My original stainless steel V2 torture test evaluation victim has seen daily use and abuse since early 2013. I don't know what it will take to eventually finish this thing off but it's like the proverbial drum beating bunny. It just keeps going and going. I won't detail the abuse this Vamo has endured but I will say it is substantial. Even so, it remains 100% trouble free. I've never had to do a thing to it except change the batteries and fill the tanks.
In March of 2014 I did pick up some ego threaded tanks to use with this Vamo to preserve what's left of the 510 threads but the way this device is holding up, it may last for years to come. Being a Stainless Steel model, it still looks as good as new from a foot away.
A tip on the protanks. They require a vacuum to prevent leakage into the center tube. Kanger says you must replace the coil head on a regular basis to prevent leaks. Maybe so but you can often puff it a while with the cap end of the Vamo held above horizontal to restore the vacuum and stop the leak. You can also switch older coils between tanks or clean and adjust the clear seal that fits over the coil area. For more persistent leaks you can make use of a donor part from a blown coil. Remove the seal from the bad coil and install it upside down onto the shank of the leaking coil. It's also better to keep a tank filled and not let it run down too low. I use a rotation of several different Protanks with my Stainless Steel V5 torture test subject and rarely have a problem with leakage. I think they're happier if they're able to rest a while.
Here's a simple operational tip if you use the 18650 batteries. You will find battery changes a lot quicker and easier if you forget about the end cap and use the entire extension tube as a cap.Just unscrew it in the middle, change out your battery and screw the whole assembly back together. I find that a lot easier than fiddling around with the cap.
To give you some battery information, one of the Efest 18650 IMR batteries will last me 18-20 hours of steady usage. An Efest 18350 IMR gives me about 8 hours of the same usage before it needs a charge. When the Vamo is set to wattage mode, it gives full power and performance right up to the point it reaches 3.2 V and the Vamo shuts down so as protect the battery and not allow it to become overly discharged.
The Efest batteries are some of the best in the business. You can buy more expensive batteries but I don't think you can buy better batteries. My wife and I are using the same sets of Efest IMR that we were using a year ago. They're still working great.
Same thing with the Efest chargers. You can pay more but you won't get better. Beware of paying less. It's not worth the risk.
The Vamo can be operated with two 18350 batteries but I don't recommend this. I have certainly tried it but see no real benefit. You must consider the risk to the Vamo when using dual batteries since they are so much longer than a single 18650. Sooner or later (usually sooner) you will displace your PCB so the Vamo will no longer be able to function in any normal mode.
Unless you have wild requirements for custom atomizers, it's a relatively pointless practice with an advanced personal vaporizer. If you require high voltage or high wattage performance from your Vamo, simply adjust your voltage or wattage to the maximum values. You can get 6 volts or 15 watts from a single battery. 40 watts with a V7.
Secondly, I gain little or no additional run time when choosing a pair of 800 mAh IMR 18350 batteries over a single 2000 mAh 18650 IMR. It looks good when you install a charged pair and your voltmeter says 8.4 V but your Vamo will still run out of power when the batteries reach 3.2 volts each and the meter reaches 6.4 V.
If this is something you really want to do, read up on the additional battery requirements for this. You must use only matching sets of 18350 that are put into service at the same time and equally charged at the same time and rotate the positioning with each use and yadda yadda. It seems like a lot of jumping through hoops for less than zero fundamental benefit in everyday use
A final word on IMR batteries. If you don't buy from us, be absolutely certain of your vendor. The counterfeiters are now pumping out phony Sony, Panasonic and Efest IMR batteries. These are dangerous betteries. Caveat emptor.
Happy Vapor Trails,